Isla De Ometepe

La Isla de Ometepe in Nicaragua is a beautiful island in the middle of the impressively large Lake Nicaragua. The island itself was formed by two massive volcanoes joined at the hip. The larger of the two volcanoes is Concepcion and the smaller is Madera.

I made my way to the ferry port from where the bus dropped me off a couple kilometers away with my 40 pound pack on my back. The heat there is ridiculous and the humidity will soak you in an instant.  I was told a taxi would cost the equivalent of less than a dollar, but opted to walk, as usual.  Along the way, a bicycle taxi rode by and offered to take me for $2.50. I told him no thanks, while in my mind I was thinking of how outrageous that price was. A while later, I passed by a few guys working on a wall across the street  who yelled to me that they would take me to the port for just 5 dollars. I laughed and said, “You guys must think I’m a gringo?” I could hear them laughing for some time after I passed. When I was well past half way there, a taxi drove by and called out that he would  charge just $5. At this point I was rather annoyed at how hard they try to take advantage of foreigners. I said to him, “You must think I’m an idiot.” He drove off and said nothing in response. Upon arrival at the dock I read a sign saying the last ferry left at 4pm and it was now 5pm. I was about to walk away, but decided to go look at another sign. I wasn’t even able to read the next sign when a couple of gentlemen told me to hurry because the last ferry was leaving. They pointed me in the right direction and I took off running. Good thing I did because I literally had to jump to get on the ferry as it was pulling away. At least now I could rest for the hour or so it would take to cross to the island.

In front of us lay the island of Ometepe with its volcanoes looming in the distance. Behind me the sun created a spectacular display of fiery oranges and reds. To the south an electrical storm lit up the sky periodically. Every time I attempted to put my camera away, something else drew my attention. Finally, night fell as we approached the dock. Birds of all sorts were saying goodnight in the jungle nearby.

 We pulled in and I walked up the road with no clue where I was going or even what part of the island we had landed on. I found a shop and the lady offered me a bungalow. The price was right so I took it. It was a block away from her place and hidden back in some banana trees. It was typical with concrete walls and a tin roof. I had a fan for relief from the incessant heat.  As I wrote in my journal I heard a loud noise on the roof as if a large animal had just run across it. I stepped outside to see, forgetting I was in my underwear. I didn’t see the source (The next morning I found it was a 3 and a half foot long iguana), but I saw a little gecko hunting by the light. I stepped back in to grab my camera and then back out again. I closed the door to keep the bugs out and immediately realized the mistake I had made. The doors can only be opened with a key, the same key I had left inside. Oops. I knew I would be able to pick the lock if I had a piece of paper, but that too was inside. The extra keys were a half block away and I was not about to walk down the middle of the street in my skivvies if I could avoid it. There were still many people out and about. Wouldn’t want to frighten the locals. My neighbor’s door was open though. I can only imagine what was going through their minds as a barely clothed gringo poked his head in asking for a piece of paper. In spite of the bewildered looks on their faces, they were kind enough to oblige. A few moments later I returned their paper, torn and contorted. I told them what had happened and we all had a good laugh.  

The next day was full of exploration as I made my way to the other side of the island to a village called Altagracia. From there I began my ascent up Concepcion. I followed a road toward the volcano until it turned into a path, which continued upward until it eventually disappeared entirely and I entered pure jungle. For the next few hours I fought my way through the jungle growth. In the near distance I could hear the calls of howler monkeys. I tried to make my way towards them, but was always blocked by impassible jungle. I was not equipped for anything too dangerous and even what I was doing was more dangerous than most people should attempt. I later found that in the previous month people had done the same thing and one was killed by a fall. They were inaccessible for days. The thing is, in the jungle you must be ever vigilant and even that may not suffice. In fact, I nearly fell into a bottomless pit myself. The growth can be so thick, as it was in this case, that it completely covered a drop off. Somehow through the growth I saw a deeper blackness and hesitated. When I looked closer I moved the plants and saw a massive drop. In fact, I could not see far enough to see just how deep it was.  Naturally, I redirected my route. Shortly thereafter I decided I had played with fate long enough and it was time to head down. Sadly I never did find the howlers.

Heading down the mountain, which I had only gone about half way up, I ran across a young man by the name of Benjamin and an older lady that was basically his mother since he had left home long ago. They were on the mountain collecting bananas and some fire starter when we found each other. They looked stunned to see me and thought I was a long lost hiker. They offered to show me back to the town. I told them that even though I did not need the help, I would love the company and offered to help Benjamin with the 100 or more pounds of bananas. The hike was quite the exercise, but I got to know the two of them and indeed they brought me back to their house where I met the rest of the family Villanueva. They have offered their home to me if I ever return. The whole hike back I was lectured on how dangerous it was to be out there on my own and that many had died doing what I had done, blah, blah, blah. I’ve heard it all, but courteously listened. Why is it that people think I don’t recognize the dangers? I am perhaps more aware of the dangers than most. I wouldn’t attempt the things I do without that recognition. Still, I suppose it is nice to see people care.

In the park, while waiting for my bus to get me around to San Jose where I was staying, I chatted with several local guys. The people on this island are super nice and it was actually a breath of fresh air from the other sorts of people. My experience on Ometepe was a memorable and pleasant one.  Sitting on the beaches of the island I saw various species of lizards and birds. Looking out over the lake you can’t help but feel like you are on the ocean, it is that humungous.

Back on the mainland I awaited a bus to take me to Masaya. I did, as I always do, and asked the price previous to boarding and I asked it of people who would not gain. Then I approached the bus and asked the price and when he quoted me more than twice what it should be, I scoffed and was about to walk away when he countered himself with a slightly lower, but still outrageous price. I continued walking and said, “I’m a gringo, not an idiot.” He lost my business. I caught the next bus. One thing I can’t stand is dishonesty and being taken advantage of. I don’t appreciate people thinking I am ignorant and don’t believe anybody  enjoys being treated that way.

The rest of my experience of Nicaragua was mostly in traveling. I did find myself wishing I was there with my brother or cousin who served their missions in Nicaragua. To see it all through their eyes and feel the experiences they had while being present at the locations is so much more potent and powerful.

When approaching the border with Honduras we were stuck in traffic for three hours on a country road as the local workers had blocked it off with logs and whatever else they could find for their protest demonstration. I never was able to find out any details. I was mostly just grateful we had air-conditioning.  We somehow were allowed to pass. Honduras was seen only by bus and El Salvador was likewise experienced in that manner for the most part. I did stay the night in San Salvador and served in the temple, but immediately boarded a bus and was on my way to Guatemala. 

As we got closer and closer to where I served my mission, I was filled with emotions. I was giddy as a schoolboy. I have returned. Ten years after leaving this beautiful country and the people I grew to love so much, I have returned.